Saturday, December 23, 2006

DECIDED TO FIT A FALSE FLOOR, FIRST TRIED THE CUT WOOD IN PLACE AND WEIGHED IT DOWN TO GET THE SHAPE,









USED ROUTER TO MAKE A TEMPLATE A IN SCRAPE WOOD TO HOLD TOGGLES FOR SANDING, AS TO SMALL TO HOLD WITH HANDS WHEN USING BELT SANDER,TRIED IT AND FOUND HAD NO FINGER PRINTS AFTER FIRST ATTEMPT
GOING TO GLUE FLAT PIECES TO THE REAL FLOOR THEN LOOSELY SCREW TWIST TOGGLES ON TOP.











LIKE SO ,THESE WIL BE LINED UP THE FLOOR LAID THEN TWSITED TO LOCK THE FLOOR IN PLACE.

CUT A BIG PLASTIC BOTTLE AND YOU MAKE A VARNISHING DISH WITH THE BASE AND A WATER SCOPE WITH A HANDLE USING THE TOP PART.

JUST INCASE ALTHOUGH IT WOULD NEVER HAPPEN !!WOULD IT? THE UNTHINKABLE AN WE HAVE A CAPSIZE I THOUGHT I WOUOLD MAKE A LOCKING PEG SYSTEM, THE PICTURES TELL THE STORY ,COMMENT IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTION SO FAR.

YOU CAN SEE THE FORE KNEE CLAMPED ON ITS PEGGED SCREWED AND GLUED THAT SHOULD HOLD IT?











THE KNEES ARE LEFT HIGH SO THAT THEY CAN BE PLANED AND SANDED DOWN TO SIZE.




MMMMMMMMM LOOKING THE PART THE FRONT THWART BUILT TO THE SAME SPEC AS THE AFT

TWO LENTHS OF LONG STRAIGHT GRAINED LIGHT WEIGHT HARD WOOD ARE CUT TO MAKE THE SHAPE OF OARS
USING THE BOOK MAKE A SPAR GAUGE TO MARK A SUARE SIDE WOOD TO ENABLE US TO PLANE 8 SIDED THEN 16 AND SO UNTILL ROUND WITH A PLANE ,SPOKESHAVE AND LOTS OF SAND PAPER

























CUT THE PADDLE TO A TAPER AND CUT THE HANDLE TO A GRIP.










GLUE AND CLAMP NOT TO TIGHT OR YOU WILL SQUEEZE ALL THE GLUE OUT?.

Friday, December 22, 2006

MID THWART

AN UPSIDE DOWN MID THWART
MID THWART SUPPROT
BEFORE THE FITTING

THE SUPPORT FOR THE MID THWART MADE FROM THE LAMINATED BOARDS SHOWN BELOW AND HARD WOOD













A KNEE TO SUPPORT THE SIDES TO THE BOW AND TRANSOM.
ALSO YOU CAN SEE THE JIG HAS BEEN ADJUSTED TO HOLD THE BOAT IN PLACE WHILE WORKED UPON.

LOOK INSIDE THE THWART YOU CAN SEE THE STERN KNEE [WHICH HELPS SUPPORT THE BOTTOM TO THE TRANSOM]
A GOOD VIEW OF THE INSIDE OF THE DRAIN PLUG PLUS THE SOLID MAHOGANY KNEE

FILLED WITH POLYSTYRENE FOR BUOYANCY

LOTS OF SCRAP WOOD WAS USED TO HOLD INNER CHINE RAILS AND INNER GUNNEL'S AGAIN MORE FOR DECORATION AND NOT IN THE BOOK BUT ADDED TO THE LOOK!!
ONE OR TWO CLAMPS TO USED GLUE TOP TRANSOM RAIL STILL TO BE CURVED TO SUIT THE EYE!! ALSO YOU CAN SEE THE SHAPE OF THE REAR THWART APPEARING,THE BOOK GAVE NO DIMENSIONS OR INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW BIG OR HOW TO GET THE ANGLES FOR THE SEAT.


DECIDED TO ENCLOSE THE THWART AND FILL WITH POLYSTYRENE ALSO FITTED A DRAIN PLUG SO I COULD CHECK IF THERE WAS ANY LEAKS,BUT THERE WILL NOT BE HE SAY'S CONFIDENTLY.

TRIED MY HAND AT LAMANATING,EVENTUALY USED THESE AS THWART [SEAT] BRACKETS.

THE OUTER CHINES ARE ATTACHED YOU NEED A LOT OF CLAMPS FOR THIS, AGAIN THE SCREWS ARE SUNK IN THEN THE HOLES PLUGGED.

NOW LIFTED THE BOAT OF THE MOULD,IF YOU LOOK UP AT THE MOULD YOU CAN SEE ONE OF THE METAL ANGLED BRACKETS THAT HELD IT TOGETHER TILL THE SIDE AND BOTTOM PANELS GO ON,THEN THEY HOLD IT.
NEXT PIC SHOWS SOME OF THE SHAPE OF THE BOAT HARD TO GET A GOOD PIC OF THE WHOLE BOAT,I WAS UP A LADDER TO TAKE THIS ONE.REMOVING THE TAPE THAT WAS SATURATED IN GLUE WAS A HARD JOB,BETTER TO CLEAN UP AS YOU GO ME THINKS.?!

STEAMING? LIKE ME ITS FULL OF HOT AIR!** NEXT THE CLAMPS HOLD ON THE RUB RAILS,NOT IN THE BOOK BUT I THOUGHT THEY ARE NEEDED AND COVER A LOT OF SCREW HEADS [ TWO BIRDS ONE STONE]















THE RUB RAILS ARE PLUGGED AND SANDED ,NOW TO REMOVE ALL THE SCREWS HOLDING THE BOAT TO THE JIG AND TURN HER OVER.

FOUND THIS PICTURE SHOUKLD HAVE BEEN THE FIRST I POSTED ,DOH!!! USING THE BOOK DREW UP PLANS FOR THE JIG ,MOULD ,BOW BOARD AND TRANSOM.

THE OUTER CHINE IS OFFERED UP AFTER COMING OUT OF THE STEAMER,WHICH IS A LONG BOX WITH A HOLE AT THE BOTTOM WHERE THE HOSE OFF THE WALLPAPER STRIPPER IS STUFFED FORCING STEAM INTO THE BOX AFTER ABOUT 15 MIN'S THE WOOD IS REMOVED USING GLOVES AS IT'S HOT HOT HOT !!! NOTICE THE BOOK ON THE BOAT FOR REFERENCE, THE TAPE BELOW THE CHINE CATCHES THE GLUE DRIPS,















THE SCREWS ARE SUNK INTO THE WOOD ALLOWING PLUGS TO FILL THE HOLES IF THE GRAIN DIRECTION IS MATCHED THEN THERE ARE ALMOST INVISIBLE THEY ARE HELD IN WITH VARNISH AS THIS IS EASIER TO REMOVE WHEN WORN. ONCE SANDED THEY BLEND IN BEAUTIFULLY.

FIRST THE KEEL IS STEAMED TO ALLOW IT TO BEND WITHOUT BRAKING THEN ATTACHED WITH SS SCREWS ONLY SO THAT AS IT WARES IT CAN BE REPLACED, A ROUTER IS USED TO CURVE THE EDGES MORE FOR SHOW
THEN THE HOLES ARE FILLED WITH A MIX OF SAWDUST AND GLUE ALLOWED TO HARDEN THEN SANDED MAKING THE SCREW HOLES ALMOST INVISIBLE.

A FLAT EDGE IS PLANE IN THE CENTRE TO TAKE THE OUTER KEEL